The 15th century church of Voronet sports its world famous vibrant blue (applied on its exterior walls), which has baffled scientists until recently with its formula that allowed it to withstand the ravages of time almost unchanged. Southward, in the county of Neamt, visit two other of Moldova’s iconic spots. First, take a short hike up the steep hill crowned by one of Moldova’s most strategic fortresses, the reputation of which has inspired generations of writers. Access is still done over a long draw bridge, almost 30 feet into the air. Then, in the populous convent of Agapia, the nuns are dividing their time between carpet weaving and worshiping in a centuries old church, decorated by the most prominent Romanian painter. In his early 20’s he set off to break the Orthodox Church’s custom of using the Byzantine style for its vaulted frescoes. Venturing through one of the Carpathian’s narrowest and most scenic gorges, exit the historical province of Moldova and head back into Transylvania.
